JUNE 29, 2021

So 2 years ago today I left the rainy Ruoergai for Langmusi, a place they called “Oriental mini-Switzerland”. I hadn’t been climbing for nearly two days, after I checked in the hostel, I had to go up the hill nearby. It wasn’t as near as I thought, but the feeling of being alone and quiet on top of the hill was great. This was me checking the height of where I stood. 3,395 meters.

Sống là phải nghiện một thứ gì đó, nếu không bạn không cảm thấy còn sống.
活着就是要对一些东西上瘾 要不然没有活着的感觉。
To live is to be addicted to something, otherwise you will not feel alive.

P.s.: Picture taken in Langmusi, Sichuan and Gansu, China in 2019.

Continue ReadingJUNE 29, 2021

APRIL 19, 2021

Nếu như không có nếu như, sau này không có sau này
Bạn có còn là bạn không, tôi có còn là tôi không.
If there is no if, then there is no later.
Whether you are still you, whether I am still me.
P.s.: Picture taken in Ruoergai, Aba Prefecture, Sichuan, China in 2019.

Continue ReadingAPRIL 19, 2021


Thế giới này tàn nhẫn với mọi đứa trẻ, lớn lên không phải cứ khóc là có thể có được kẹo.
The world is so cruel to every child. When you grow up, you can’t get candy just by crying.

P.s.: Picture taken in Ruoergai, Aba Prefecture, Sichuan, China in 2019.

Continue ReadingSEPTEMBER 5, 2020


Nước nóng không thể trị bách bệnh, lời tâm tình không tồn tại suốt đời.
Hot water can’t cure all diseases, and love words will not last a lifetime.

P.s.: Picture taken in Ruoergai, Aba Prefecture, Sichuan, China in 2019.

Continue ReadingSEPTEMBER 1, 2020

JULY 1, 2020 – 1

Chúc những bất đắc dĩ và tiếc nuối của bạn trong nửa đầu năm có thể hóa thành thu hoạch và thỏa mãn trong sáu tháng cuối năm.
May all of your helplessness and regrets in the first half of the year can be turned into harvest and satisfaction in the second half.

P.s.: Picture taken in Ruoergai, Aba Prefecture, Sichuan, China in 2019.

Continue ReadingJULY 1, 2020 – 1

JUNE 30, 2020

Người dân tộc Tạng thường nói: “Ai biết khi nào sẽ chết!” Điều này giống như Tony nói trong Green Book: “Mặc kệ làm gì, đều dốc hết toàn lực. Công việc ra công việc, cười ắt cười to, ăn cái gì cũng coi như là bữa ăn cuối cùng.”
藏族人常言:“谁知道啥时候死!”这跟《绿皮书》里托尼说的:“不管做什么,都要倾尽全力,工作就工作,笑就大笑,吃东西,就当是最后一顿吃。” 相当的契合。
Tibetans often say: “Who knows when we will die!” This is like what Tony said in Green Book: “Whatever you do, do it 100%. When you work, work. When you laugh, laugh. When you eat, eat like it’s your last meal.”

P.s.: Picture taken in Ruoergai and Langmusi, Sichuan and Gansu, China in 2019.

Continue ReadingJUNE 30, 2020

Ngawa Tibetan And Qiang Autonomous Prefecture, Day 9: Langmusi To Barkam, Transit In Zoigê

I didn’t know that I saw the Hui mosque the day I arrived in Langmusi. It was on the right side of the monastery near the bus stop and on the way to the hill that I trekked in that evening. I found out when I saw the photos I took that day.

Before getting on the bus back to Zoige (Ruoergai), I went inside the mosque but all doors were closed. I was at the Ruoergai station before 8:30AM but the tickets wrote that the bus to Xiaojin started at 12:10PM.

This place must be the highest place I’ve been to in this trip. It was cold today, too. I followed the Hanoian teacher girl to buy some flat peaches. They tasted just like other peaches I’d eaten before. But at least I tried.

After having potatoes and beef rice for lunch, I found a cat playing with my backpack hit belt.

After 1 hour, we were stuck again in a traffic jam for 1 and a half hours. First time I got to use my paper fan. 10 years later, Sichuan traffic jams were much more orderly and polite.

It was so hard to ask for the direction to Mt. Siguniang here because the station was closed when we arrived in Barkam aka Maerkang at 7:30PM. The bus driver told me there’d be one early tomorrow morning.

Then I leaded my team to find a hotel. I saw one looking kinda luxury next to the bus station. I realized that Chinese people used a face recognition machine to check in to the hotels here. After waiting for a while, I got the boot because I was a foreigner. I got the same result from one or two places nearby.

After wheeling my suitcase faster to the downtown worrying it would be dark soon, I saw another luxury hotel after crossing a small bridge. Luckily, they accepted 4 foreigners in 1 room. But the receptionist took so long to register me that I had to tell her I’d come back to get my passport after dinner.

The room was the most well-equipped I’d ever seen in Sichuan, and the bathroom looked extravagant too.

Later, when I was out seeking a place for dinner at 9:00 PM, I realized that this town was almost empty. It was hard to find a noodles restaurant that was open. Didn’t know why the chef kept laughing while talking to me. He didn’t believe I wasn’t Chinese until I showed him my passport. However, he cooked delicious noodles.

Continue ReadingNgawa Tibetan And Qiang Autonomous Prefecture, Day 9: Langmusi To Barkam, Transit In Zoigê

Ngawa Tibetan And Qiang Autonomous Prefecture, Day 8: Langmusi And Tibetan Sky Burial Site

[Tiếng Việt ở phần dưới]
Langmusi was very dusty even in the early morning because janitors in their full workwear with masks and long gloves sweeping everywhere. I could only see their eyes and their beautiful feather brooms.

I started for what I thought the Sichuan side of the town, but couldn’t find the Hui mosque. Then I bought the entrance ticket for Sertri Gompa aka Dacanglangmu Saichisi.

Luckily, because I didn’t know the direction well enough, I guessed I should do what others do. Turned out I was at the northern side (Gansu side). I sought for the sky burial site after my companions split up to explore the surroundings by themselves. I saw people walking to the hill side, so I followed them. After a while, I stopped near a school and some Chinese women spoke to me. I could barely answer them, but they thought I spoke Chinese so well. However, I barely understood what they said because they used some local dialect. From their outfits, I thought they must be tourists from the countryside.

Surprisingly, I met the best English speaking person of China on the hill here where she happily told me I needed to walk up the way she went down to reach the Tibetan sky burial site. She also added that there were big birds and almost no people at the site now. Then I continued and saw only yaks. I was surprised again when I saw cars driving up to the burial site. Seemed like those people came from a different road and didn’t see the monastery. I walked around the site for a while, took some photos and videos.

At the farthest point of the journey above 3,500m was a plot of land surrounded by Tibetan flags where I saw many huge axes on the ground and vultures waiting on the mountainside. At first, the vultures seemed to merge into the background which I thought stones. When I looked carefully again, they made me startled and frozen for a while. Then I quickly calmed down as the vultures were very quiet despite their enormous appearance. I also saw many fragments of human bones and even a bloody tooth nearby. I didn’t wanna see straight into the bloody stuff. However, in the daylight, I wasn’t scared, I felt a bit lucky I found a sacred place like this.

I’ve never seen such a busy town like Langmusi in this Aba Prefecture. Though it seemed like a favorite tourist spot, it still attracted my attention. After getting down the hill, my team joined me, and we went to a crowded restaurant for lunch. The wonton soup was good, but I still preferred the dry wonton in Zoigê.

After taking a nap in the hotel, we went to the monastery nearby. I thought this Kirti Gompa aka Dacanglamu Ge’erdisi (on the southern/Sichuan side) was more beautiful, but it was just one big temple. People outside it looked more like camping to me because they were like just sitting there or finding a good spot to take some pictures. I walked towards to canyon, and my temple visit suddenly turned into a trek. Maybe I lacked info of the Namo Gorge before I actually saw it.

Wading through the stream, some horse keepers talked to me. They tried to get me on a horse trekking but I told them I was afraid of horses. (Actually I didn’t like riding on animals). He told me the valley would lead to a meadow. Two companions found me while I was slowing down so I decided to go back. The meadow was a little disappointed because the scene was nothing unique at this time of the year.

When I returned I met a Canadian guy whose face was redder than the Tibetans and a short-haired British girl who looked like a nun. He said my hat was from Canada, but I told him it was more Russian. He told me that he went to Vietnam, and actually the two of them were hitchhiking together after meeting in Hanoi. Lucy said the luggage was too heavy. Watching her carrying her backpack made me feel tired too.

I tried yak yogurt because a companion told me it tasted like Greek yogurt. But I smelled like the cow itself in this yogurt at the first taste. Nothing delicious about it.

Before dinner, I bought a panda faced craft item as a gift for my friend. After another fried rice meal, I decided to buy some Tibetan beef jerky for my sis. I really liked the packaging. Finally, I called it a day after 20,000+ steps.
Khu Tự Trị Dân Tộc Tạng-Khương A Bá, Ngày 8: Lang Mộc Tự Và Đài Thiên Táng Của Người Tạng
Lang Mộc Tự rất bụi ngay cả vào sáng sớm vì những người lao công trong trang phục bảo hộ lao động đầy đủ với khẩu trang và găng tay dài quét khắp nơi. Mình chỉ có thể nhìn thấy đôi mắt của họ và những chiếc chổi lông tuyệt đẹp.

Mình bắt đầu đi về phía mình nghĩ là phía Tứ Xuyên, nhưng không tìm thấy nhà thờ Hồi giáo nào cả. Sau đó, mình mua vé vào cổng Tái Xích Tự (tiếng Anh là Sertri Gompa, phiên âm đầy đủ là Dacanglangmu Saichisi).

May mắn thay, vì mình không biết rõ phương hướng, mình đoán mình nên làm theo những gì người khác làm. Hóa ra mình đang ở phía bắc (phía Cam Túc). Mình tìm kiếm đài thiên táng sau khi các bạn đồng hành chia nhau ra tự đi khám phá xung quanh. Mình nhìn thấy mọi người đi bộ đến sườn đồi, vì vậy mình đi theo họ. Sau một lúc, mình dừng lại gần một trường học và vài phụ nữ Trung Quốc bắt chuyện với mình. Mình hầu như không thể trả lời họ, nhưng họ nghĩ mình nói tiếng Trung quá tốt. Tuy nhiên, mình hầu như không hiểu họ nói gì vì họ sử dụng giọng địa phương. Từ trang phục của họ, mình nghĩ họ chắc là khách du lịch từ nông thôn.

Thật ngạc nhiên, mình đã gặp một người nói tiếng Anh giỏi nhất Trung Quốc trên ngọn đồi ở đây. Bạn gái ấy vui vẻ nói với mình rằng mình cần phải đi bộ theo con đường mà bạn ấy đã đi xuống để đến được đài thiên táng của người Tạng. Bạn ấy cũng nói thêm rằng có những con chim lớn và hầu như không có ai ở đó. Sau đó mình tiếp tục đi và chỉ thấy những con bò Tây Tạng. Mình lại ngạc nhiên lần nữa khi thấy xe ô tô chạy lên đài thiên táng. Có vẻ như những người đó đến từ một con đường khác và không tham quan tu viện. Mình dạo quanh đài thiên táng một lúc, chụp một số ảnh và quay video.

Ở điểm xa nhất của cuộc hành trình trên độ cao 3.500m là một khu đất được bao quanh bởi những lá cờ Tạng, nơi mình nhìn thấy nhiều chiếc rìu lớn trên mặt đất và những con kền kền đang chờ sẵn trên sườn núi. Lúc đầu, những con kền kền dường như hòa vào cảnh nền phía sau mà mình nghĩ là đá. Khi mình nhìn kỹ lại, chúng khiến mình giật mình và đơ ra một lúc. Sau đó, mình nhanh chóng bình tĩnh lại vì những con kền kền rất yên lặng mặc dù chúng có ngoại hình to lớn. Mình cũng nhìn thấy nhiều mảnh xương người và thậm chí cả một chiếc răng dính máu gần đó. Mình không muốn nhìn thẳng vào những thứ đẫm máu. Tuy nhiên, trong ánh sáng ban ngày, mình không sợ hãi, mình cảm thấy một chút may mắn khi tìm thấy một nơi linh thiêng như thế này.

Mình chưa bao giờ thấy một thị trấn sầm uất như Lang Mộc Tự ở châu tự trị A Bá này. Mặc dù nó có vẻ là một địa điểm du lịch nổi tiếng, nhưng nó vẫn thu hút sự chú ý của mình. Sau khi xuống đồi, nhóm của mình tập hợp và chúng mình cùng đi đến một nhà hàng đông đúc để ăn trưa. Súp hoành thánh ngon, nhưng mình vẫn thích hoành thánh khô ở Nhược Nhĩ Cái hơn.

Sau khi chợp mắt trong khách sạn, chúng mình đến tu viện gần đó. Mình nghĩ Cách Nhĩ Để Tự (tiếng Anh là Kirti Gompa, phiên âm đầy đủ là Dacanglamu Ge’erdisi) ở phía nam/phía Tứ Xuyên đẹp hơn, nhưng nó chỉ là một ngôi đền lớn. Những người bên ngoài trông giống như đang đi cắm trại hơn vì họ chỉ thích ngồi đó hoặc tìm một vị trí tốt để chụp một vài bức ảnh. Mình đi về phía hẻm núi, và chuyến viếng thăm đền của mình đột nhiên biến thành một chuyến trekking. Có lẽ mình đã thiếu thông tin về Hẻm núi Namo trước khi mình thực sự nhìn thấy nó.

Đang lội suối, mấy người giữ ngựa bắt chuyện với mình. Họ cố gắng dụ mình đi tham quan bằng ngựa nhưng mình nói với họ rằng mình sợ ngựa. (Thực ra mình không thích cưỡi con gì cả). Một người nói với mình thung lũng sẽ dẫn đến một thảo nguyên. Hai người bạn đồng hành đã tìm thấy mình trong khi mình đang giảm tốc độ nên mình quyết định quay trở về. Thảo nguyên hơi thất vọng vì khung cảnh không có gì đặc sắc vào thời điểm này trong năm.

Khi trở về, mình gặp một anh chàng người Canada có khuôn mặt đỏ hơn người Tạng và một cô gái người Anh tóc ngắn trông như một nữ tu sĩ. Bạn trai này nói mũ của mình xuất xứ từ Canada, nhưng mình nói với anh ấy là mũ của Nga. Bạn ấy nói với mình rằng đã đến Việt Nam, và thực ra hai người họ đã cùng đi du lịch kiểu quá giang với nhau sau khi gặp nhau ở Hà Nội. Lucy nói hành lý quá nặng. Nhìn bạn ấy xách ba lô cũng khiến mình thấy mệt mỏi.

Mình đã thử sữa chua yak vì một người bạn đồng hành nói với mình rằng nó có vị giống như sữa chua Hy Lạp. Nhưng mình đã ngửi thấy mùi giống như vị bò trong sữa chua này ngay lần nếm đầu tiên. Không ngon gì cả.

Trước bữa tối, mình mua một món đồ thủ công có khuôn mặt gấu trúc để làm quà cho bạn mình. Sau một bữa cơm chiên khác, mình quyết định mua một ít thịt bò khô Tây Tạng tặng chị. Mình thực sự thích bao bì của nó. Cuối cùng, mình kết thúc ngày với hơn 20.000 bước chân.

Continue ReadingNgawa Tibetan And Qiang Autonomous Prefecture, Day 8: Langmusi And Tibetan Sky Burial Site

Ngawa Tibetan And Qiang Autonomous Prefecture, Day 7: Zoigê To Langmusi

Really, Langmusi (Taktsang Lhamo according to Tibetans) was out of my initial plan. This was somewhere unplanned. Its name wasn’t in my last plan sheet in May. It was somehow a last minute decision. It turned out to be the best place of the journey.

As we all stayed in one room with 2 beds, I woke up quite early in the morning. Unluckily, the rain from yesterday evening has not stopped yet, hence my plan to trek a nearby hill was ruined. A bit later, I decided to go out with my umbrella and found a boiled corn for breakfast. However, the corn was so hard that I couldn’t finish it while it was still hot.

While we were roaming around Zoigê, a driver found me opposite the bus station and stopped for a chat. I was intending to ask for some direction. He told me that there was no direct bus from Langmusi to Mt. Siguniang and that I had to get back to here in Ruoergai first then go to Maerkang (Barkam). He offered 120 yuan per person for the trip to Barkam. I took his name card, but I didn’t think I’d hire a private car.

I met a cute Tibetan kid with his mother (?) on the street where he grabbed my hand and shook it gently which warmed my heart. It turned out that he was begging for money. Then I remembered having met many adult Tibetan beggars in Sichuan 10 years ago.

I finally had the best meal of this trip so far. I picked one of many restaurants opposite the bus station. The wonton was so good, and it tasted even better with the delicious dipping sauce.

The bus to Langmusi was the same with the one we took to the Flower Lake yesterday. However, we were stuck in an hour long traffic. Was it because today was Saturday? The bus driver who was informative yesterday also told me to get back to Zoigê with his bus if I wanted to go to Mt. Siguniang the day after tomorrow.

The bus passed some small streets on the way to the Langmusi bus station. Then it stopped at a small parking lot in front of a big gate. I guess this was one of the 2 famous monasteries of Langmusi as I saw a ticket collector.

When I checked in and put down my luggage, I went down to the hall to realize that there was some misunderstanding with the hotel owner and his father who took us inside. I had to bargain for the two rooms again. This must be the tallest building around here. I had to climb to the 3rd or 4th floor. The rooftop where we found to hang clothes was still 2 floors up.

It was around 6:30 pm and the two Hanoian girls didn’t wanna go see the nearby monastery yet. So I decided to hike the hill nearby. It didn’t look far and the day was still young. Luckily, the Dien Bien girl accompanied me at last even though she was afraid we couldn’t be back before it was dark.

This was my bravest experience of the trip, I finished climbing the hill passing old and damaged wooden stairs in a gloomy afternoon. On the way, I also had to passed a tree bridge with no handrails. It would be threatening to me if I did it alone.

The 2 of us got back to the hotel around 8 pm and I still saw the hill vividly from my hotel room. I tried to reheat the corn in the boiling water for dinner, but it was still too hard to eat.

The Hanoian teacher girl told me she counted the money and thought that we spent half of the budget. I startled at first, then realized that it was half of the journey already. For the rest, I didn’t think it would cost more than what we had already spent.

Check out my Instagram story of this day: https://www.instagram.com/stories/highlights/18015565684279704/

Continue ReadingNgawa Tibetan And Qiang Autonomous Prefecture, Day 7: Zoigê To Langmusi

Ngawa Tibetan And Qiang Autonomous Prefecture, Day 6: Songpan To Zoigê Grassland

After one third of the journey, I discovered that I was able to buy a ticket, make a reservation, ask for directions, order food, etc. with my improving Chinese.

Though the bus departed at 10:00AM, it reached Zoigê Grassland aka Ruoergai Marsh at 12:30PM. As I was at a higher place than Songpan, I saw no trees, only grass, goats, yaks, and tents which reminded me of Tagong Grassland in the Garzê Tibetan Autonomous Prefecture.

I thought I would be here at 2PM. Luckily, I had enough time to find out the bus to Langmusi at 2:30PM also passed Huahu/Flower Lake. So I bought the ticket for 21 yuans (26 and we could go to Langmusi).

A woman took us to their hotel. 4 of us shared the 2 bedrooms in a room. I didn’t feel at ease but I hope I could sleep tonight.

I then found a big restaurant where many people was having lunch. I decided for a bowl of beef noodles. Hmmm, too much noodles and too little beef. Too salty as well.

We strolled around the bus station as we waited for the bus. Zoigê had something that reminded me of Kangding, maybe because it wasn’t as dull as I had thought. It had so many uptown-like stores. Maybe I was the first Vietnamese to have been to this town.

It took us 45 mins on the bus to be at the so-called Ruoergai Wetland National Nature Reserve. Because it was rather late, I was worried of the bus going back, I asked some travelers to find out how much time needed for this place. It took me 2 hours instead of 1 like they said.

It was so cold and windy here (8-9 degrees celsius) despite sunshine, with not many flowers to see. If I were here in late July (as my initial plan), flowers would be in full bloom. However, I’d never seen so many gesanghua in the wild like in here.

When I was walking and waiting at the gate, I found out there was no bus back to Ruoergai. The taxi driver from Langmusi didn’t accept the bus fare. We went back to Ruoergai with 100 yuans (25 each). From what the driver said, I guessed Langmusi was not so far away.

Finally, I had a normal rice meal with eggs and tomato soup which cost me only 5 yuans in a Ruoergai restaurant.

Continue ReadingNgawa Tibetan And Qiang Autonomous Prefecture, Day 6: Songpan To Zoigê Grassland